


A vinyl figurine inspired by a famous painting by Luis Royo... The interesting part was recreating the lighting from the original painting on the figurine. Or at least trying my best to do so. "Zenithal" lighting—a very trendy term right now among figurine makers and creators of "elaborate" dioramas (the old classical painters must be laughing their heads off)...
Just like in the "Conan the Eat Man" tutorial, we'll tackle the lighting section by section based on the main light source...
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Both methods. Vinyl is a flexible material that can be immersed in boiling water if a piece becomes misshapen, and the defect can be easily corrected. The adhesive is Super Glue...

The putty used here is Tamiya, but fine body filler diluted with acetone will also work very well and offers much better value for the money...
Smooth toilet paper coated with white glue will serve as the "seam" for the monster's scarf as well as certain parts of its body...
Painting of a Woman
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After applying a white acrylic spray primer to both figures—Caution: oil and thinner damage vinyl, so always use an acrylic primer if you’re going to paint with oil afterward...
The oil paint used will be Winsor & Newton alkyd oil paints in tubes. Always start with the flesh tones. Base—Sienna—Naples Yellow—White, and a little Burnt Umber... After letting it dry for a good fifteen minutes, blend the colors together (always working from the darkest to the lightest). Above is a test on the hair and dress, showing the beginning of transparency...
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Top photo: The dress’s transparency is emphasized. Shadows on the hair and face... Above: View from... the back! The dress’s transparency is emphasized for the first time...
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Top photo: The effect is accentuated on the flesh-colored areas. Above: The white of the dress is highlighted for the finishing touch...
Monster Lighting


Keep in mind that the light comes from below the face, not from directly in front or from the side. The contours of the face allow for some interesting effects...

The first part is done... Let it dry for 24 hours...

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Two more views of the finished figurine...
Cape Paint
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Applying the different colors. An initial blend of umber, sienna, and Naples yellow has already been applied. Here, touches of Naples yellow and white are being applied to further accentuate the lighting. We let the solvents dry between blends so that the colors mix more effectively...
The Setting
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A set piece made of extruded polystyrene, based on the example in the tutorial for this material. The base: a stone arch surrounding a doorway...
The wall is adorned with partially damaged slabs, as is the arch. The slabs are also made of thin extruded polystyrene...

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White acrylic primer (same protection as for vinyl) and the debris that will end up on the set...
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First coat of Humbrol 84 primer... Painting the door with Winsor oil-based paint...
Initial lighting using cool colors. Here, I added a lighting effect at the top of the wall that doesn't detract from the overall look...


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Close-up of the base and the debris...


Portrait: I left his eyes red, thinking he looked more impressive that way...
























