


The Alien Queen is a 1/12-scale figure from the Halcyon brand, released in the 1990s and made of vinyl and solid injection-molded plastic...
Pitfalls to avoid during assembly:
a). Sand the mold line on the tail—which is made of soft rubber—using WATER-BASED sandpaper (important)...
b). Drill holes in the feet (foot/heel) to glue two metal rods into them for attaching the figure to the future base...
c). Carefully check the queen’s anatomical accuracy before assembling and gluing. The most common mistake is assembling the figure with the tail touching the ground and acting as a tripod to hold the whole thing in place...

The photo above and the ones below show the painting process—see the tutorial: "Painting a 1/6-scale 'Alien' figure..."







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Details of the head...
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Below: details of the back...




The Sticky Slime
The next step is to create the creature's slimy slime...
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To do this, we will use “satin-weave” glass cloth designed for aircraft construction, whose sizing (the chemical coating on the glass fibers) is compatible with epoxy resins. Tip: Purchase the materials (fibers + resin) from the same source—an aircraft construction shop, a model aircraft club, or a supplier of composite materials. This ensures that you’re working with materials that are fully compatible...
Equipment:
- Two tweezers and two box cutters.
- Two tweezers and two box cutters.

- Toothpicks.
The idea is to apply tiny dots of Superglue GEL to the object using a toothpick...
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Next, place the glass fibers on these dots of glue. Press them down with the tip of the utility knife to ensure they adhere properly...
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CAUTION: Use as little adhesive as possible. That’s why we call them “micro-dots.” If you use too much, the adhesive will saturate the fiberglass, making it impossible to impregnate it with epoxy resin later (resulting in a loss of transparency)...

In addition, with certain types of glue, some fabrics turn excessively white or brown when they come into contact with it. Feel free to apply fairly long fibers; once the glue has set, you can trim them and secure them at their final position. Some may be left loose...

During impregnation, keep in mind that it takes some time for the resin to make the glass fibers transparent, so don't overload them...

On the other hand, excess resin and large resin droplets may form in some areas, depending on the subject's shape...

Finally, the resin spreading out over the model isn't a problem in itself. Smooth it out regularly, just like varnish; if there are any uneven spots, the varnish applied later will blend everything together ("uniform clear glaze")...

Your monster is now as slimy and slobbery as you could hope for...
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Keep in mind that your epoxy resin, like any resin, has a pot life that depends on a number of factors (temperature, humidity, and the supplier’s technical specifications). Consequently, as long as your resin hasn’t started to “set” (harden), you’ll need to keep an eye on it and use a brush to smooth out any excess resin droplets or clumps...
Don’t worry—it’s much easier once you get the hang of it...
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The next day, your resin will have hardened. Using a brush, remove any unimpregnated glass microfibers...
Below are three photos of the body...









The Queen Mother will be the subject—along with Ripley's "Loader"—of a third tutorial featuring the Sulaco's cargo hold set from the movie "Aliens"...























