“This butterfly tiger can swim, too!”

THE "TIGER MOTH" - DH-82A/C TIGER MOTH

This diorama provides an opportunity to get a first-hand look at resin techniques for creating water and ocean effects. The resin used here didn’t live up to our expectations, but it did help us better understand the challenges specific to this material. It is an aerospace-grade epoxy resin (polyester resin should be avoided at all costs because it ALWAYS cures over time) that is not sold to the general public. Its main advantage is minimal edge shrinkage during drying...Another brand that’s easier to find is featured in a tutorial here, which shows the step-by-step technique for making “your own” resin...

DH-82A/C TIGER MOTH

Emile Folks' plane is a biplane from the last war. The 1/32-scale Matchbox kit dates back to... 1979 and needs some improvements. Here, as befits a diorama, it will become a seaplane...

Airplane model parts painted gray with yellow masking before assembly

First thing: glue and fill the two-piece parts, then sand them down...

Fuselage and wings of a model airplane being assembled, with yellow masking tape on a gray primer coat Assembling the wings and tail section...

Given the kit's age, the more or less warped wing and float mounts have been replaced with Evergreen parts...

Model of a floatplane currently being painted, with yellow wings on a gray fuselage against a white background

When gluing, make sure the entire assembly is symmetrical—wings, tail, floats...

The main challenge lies in combining these subsets...

In this front view, you can see that the wings are slightly warped... This isn't due to the wiring, but rather to age... The struts are added using fishing line. We drill the pre-marked holes with micro-drills, then, once the line is glued in place, we fill the top and bottom areas with putty and sand them down...

Painting.

Top view of a model floatplane biplane, sand-colored with brown stripes

The paint used is Humbrol oil paint. Here, a coat of light sand was applied to even out the overall look, and 160 was used to add shading to the aircraft...

Model of a red two-seat biplane, viewed from the rear three-quarter angle against a neutral background

I decided to make it red, just like in Miyazaki's magnificent animated film *Porco Rosso*, which inspired me to create this diorama...

The four images above show the progress of the painting. Base 133, then 73, 153, and 60. Next, a turpentine wash was applied using base 63. We continue with a dry-brush technique using 20, 60, 100, and 82...

Model of a red biplane seaplane on floats, three-quarter view against a neutral background A "realistic" view showing the numerous guy wires...

Here, the wooden propeller is painted over a white undercoat, then with Naples yellow and Sienna. Once dry, it will be varnished... The oil reservoir (?) is also aged using a mixture of Umber and Sienna...

Model of a red biplane seaplane on floats, three-quarter view against a neutral background Paint the floats with Models Master silver; then, once dry, apply a wash made from Umber and Sienna...

The floats are painted with Models Master silver and then, once dry, with a wash made from Terre d'Ombre and Terre de Sienne...
Close-up of the red fuselage of a biplane with floats, skull insignia The crew hatches were remade from plastic sheet, and nuts were added to the exhaust. The decals were applied...

The crew doors were rebuilt using plastic sheet, and nuts were added to the exhaust. Decals were applied...
Close-up of the two open cockpits of a wooden biplane, with its struts and engine cowling The interior of the cockpit, which was very simplistic on the model, was improved based on photographs of the actual aircraft...

The Bugatti

An old Matchbox kit that was reissued a few years ago by Revell...

The car was modified to turn it into a comic book vehicle. A roof rack was added, and the spoked wheels were replaced with "solid" ones. The base paint is Humbrol HI-2 Overall Green...

Model of a vintage race car, assembled with green primer, on a white background

Then apply a Models Master weathered olive...

A mixture of black and 98 was applied to the entire model. After dry-brushing with Humbrol 158, I added weathering with a fine brush using Humbrol HX5 Light Aircraft Gray...

A front view showing the headlights. The bulbs are made of flame-stretched translucent plastic and painted with Tamya neon yellow acrylic paint...

Model of a vintage car in weathered khaki with an orange umbrella and a rear platform Model of a vintage car in chipped khaki with an orange umbrella, roof rack, and luggage

Two views showing the chipping, finished with a No. 14 blue...

Vintage race car model, weathered, with an umbrella and a suitcase in the back

The vehicle is treated with a juice-based filter, and then the finishing touches are applied. Dashboard, seats, steering wheel, luggage, exhaust, wheels...

The vehicle is fitted with a juice-based filter, and then the final touches are applied. Dashboard, seats, steering wheel, luggage, exhaust system, wheels...
An old, weathered race car with an umbrella, table, chair, and lantern, against a neutral background A few props will round out the scene...

The Setting

We used a few sketches to come up with a good visual that would showcase the scene...

Beige fabric biplane, military workshop truck, and parts laid out on a wooden board Plastic barrels and a plastic tank will be used to build the balsa wood pontoon...

Base foundation under construction with a wooden walkway and white stucco applied

The set. Extruded polystyrene and plaster of Paris for the sand. Plywood for the background...

Decorative painting

A backdrop painted in shades of blue and yellow, drying on the work surface The base is painted with Liquitex acrylics using a brush...

Sky background painted in shades of blue and yellow on a wooden frame

The water is finished with an airbrush...

Base currently under construction, with a biplane, a ladder, and a paintbrush placed on top of it

The figure and accessories are set up, and a flocked finish is added to bring the whole thing together...

Resin

Resin
Preparation of a translucent, transparent resin in a white plastic container The resin and the hardener. Both products are weighed to determine the correct proportions based on the volume and the thickness to be applied...

Resin and hardener. Both products are weighed to determine the correct amounts based on the volume and thickness to be covered...
A whitish resin mixture stirred with a wooden spatula in a cup Everything must be mixed thoroughly, taking care to avoid bubbles as much as possible...

Everything must be mixed thoroughly, avoiding bubbles as much as possible...
A mixture of blue pigment in a translucent resin with a stick A blue dye is added to enhance the sense of depth...

A blue dye is added to enhance the depth effect...
Plastic basin filled with a bluish, foamy solution for color preparation Again, you need to make sure to bring the bubbles to the surface to get rid of them...

Here again, you need to make sure the bubbles rise to get rid of them...
A layer of clear resin poured over the blue gradient background to simulate the water in the scene Pouring the first layer...

Pouring the first layer...
A resin pour with a blue gradient depicting the sea, beach, and ripples in progress The first layer has been laid. Here, we apply layers that are, on average, 3 or 4 mm thick...

The first coat is applied. The average thickness here is 3 or 4 mm...
Applying a brushstroke of paint to the beach in a seascape The edge is smoothed to prevent any thickness at the end of the stroke...

Preparing the second coat. Installing the pontoon...
Resin poured into a frame, with a blue-and-yellow gradient held in place by paint cans
We are pouring the second layer...

Acrylic gel

Applying the white foam along the sandy shore with a toothpick

As soon as the second layer is poured, we begin shaping the wave crests. Liquitex acrylic gel is applied using a toothpick and shaped...

Beach diorama featuring a vintage race car, a figure sitting at a table under a beach umbrella, and a pier The final result...

Red biplane seaplane with floats resting on turquoise water, diorama by Emile Folks
The seaplane is positioned before the third coat is applied. The mechanic's weight on the right float is taken into account to increase the aircraft's tilt, and then it sinks...

A photo showing the successive layers as they are applied. We use a hair dryer to heat the resin just as it begins to harden to create swell-like waves. The problem with this specific product was its reaction to heat... It was difficult to achieve even waves...

Diorama featuring a red biplane seaplane moored near a dock, a beach, and a military vehicle

Diorama of a biplane seaplane on the water near a dock, with a cliff backdrop A background painted with acrylic paint is attached to the back of the diorama...

Envoi en cours…

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